Technical Advice
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1:x What’s in a mountain guiding ratio?
Read more: 1:x What’s in a mountain guiding ratio?1:x What’s in a mountain guiding ratio? 1:1, 1:2 Cultural norms, local customs, regulation and why small ratio groups are more important than you think. The situation I found myself in was suboptimal. ‘Tower Ridge’ is normally climbed roped up, with one or two clients per instructor or guide, using the techniques of short-roping and…
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The Normalisation of Deviance and how I nearly killed myself at an avalanche “safe” venue…
Read more: The Normalisation of Deviance and how I nearly killed myself at an avalanche “safe” venue…The Normalisation of Deviance and how I nearly killed myself at an avalanche “safe” venue… MOVE, MOVE, MOVE, we pushed forwards in towards the cliff as we were hit by the air blast. Pelted by chunks of snow I wrapped my arms around my head and waited either for the avalanche, or my life, to…
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Attentional Narrowing: Why mountain guides and pilots know it can put you in harms way
Read more: Attentional Narrowing: Why mountain guides and pilots know it can put you in harms wayI levelled the wings and pointed the glider back towards the tarmac triangle of the three runways. The uncomfortable truth of my situation was glaring back at me. Attentional narrowing meant there was a good chance I might not make it back to the airfield… The day had started as a normal but mediocre gliding…
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CASM – A Human Factors Group Tool
Read more: CASM – A Human Factors Group ToolGuides, Instructors and leaders operating in the UK in avalanche terrain frequently travel in groups, but yet there remains very little research into the ‘Non Technical Skills’ required to mitigate avalanche terrain. CASM is a proposed Human Factors group tool which is based on Crew Resource Management (CRM) training from the aviation sector, an inevitably…
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Mountain CRM: An interview with a Search and Rescue Helicopter Pilot
Read more: Mountain CRM: An interview with a Search and Rescue Helicopter PilotWhile Mountain Assurance was preparing to launch ‘Mountain CRM’, we decided to share this short audio interview with Search and Rescue (SAR) helicopter pilot Graham Stein. I know many of you have been waiting for ‘Mountain CRM’ and this online course is available now via the Mountain Assurance Teachable site. Despite the additional time available…
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Crew Resource Management and Human Factors in Avalanche Terrain
Read more: Crew Resource Management and Human Factors in Avalanche TerrainA few days ago I shared the exciting news that Mountain Assurance is preparing to launch a short online course entitled ‘Mountain CRM’. This short course in Crew Resource Management and human factors in avalanche terrain will be a mix of written material, short lectures and audio interviews. What is CRM? But the obvious question…
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Mont Blanc: The Inconvenient Truth…
Read more: Mont Blanc: The Inconvenient Truth…To climb Mont Blanc remains one of the great accessible challenges in the Chamonix Mont Blanc Massif for climbers and alpinists. Standing on the highest summit (4810m) around and looking across the Italian plains, along the alpine arc and below to the smaller chains of Les Aravis and Chablais is a seminal experience. But we…
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Statutory Regulation of “Mountain Guides” in Scotland…?
Read more: Statutory Regulation of “Mountain Guides” in Scotland…?In December 2014 there was much discussion within the UK instructional and guiding community following the Fatal Accident Inquiry Determination into the tragic death of Graham Paterson on the Isle of Skye. Sheriff Principal Derek CW Pyle made the following recommendations under the Fatal Accidents and Sudden Deaths Inquiry (Scotland) Act 1976: 1. Consideration should…
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